Turning Your Skin Around

I’m grateful to Substack for the platform to talk about science-based skincare in a sea of influencers, MLM skincare sold by unlicensed professionals, and basic ignorance about skin science. Thank you for reading. I hope you find all of this helpful, and clarifying in your search for best skincare practices.

I’m a licensed esthetician of 13 years and business owner of 11 years. I’ve seen a lot in that time, and have been privileged to help many clients get their skin healthy. My business focuses on skin health, not beauty. If my clients feel beautiful because their skin feels and looks good, then I’ve done a good job.

Lately, I’ve been asked about why skin still feels dry in spite of using moisturizer. That must mean that the moisturizer has stopped worked. The reality is that moisturizer is a product formulated to help the skin retain moisture. If your skin is dehydrated to begin with, then moisturizer isn’t going to give you much of a result. Water (hydration) must be layered into skin in order for moisturizer to be beneficial -so that moisturizer can bind water to the skin. I always recommend using an alcohol-free toner after cleansing and before moisturizer to give the skin a big drink prior to applying moisturizer, which should be done on damp skin to optimize efficacy. A serum targeted to treat a condition such as brown spots, acne, fine lines, or premature aging is always a good choice to layer on top of toner, and before moisturizer. I'll talk about why serums are important in a future post.

The best moisturizer shouldn't be a random drugstore or trendy brand choice, but a considered and thoughtful purchase which takes into account your skin’s needs. Most of all, “why is my skin dry and/or dehydrated to begin with?” should be the first question to ask when exploring product choices. A licensed esthetician is the best person to ask. Dermatologists are doctors licensed to treat skin diseases. Estheticians are trained to diagnose and treat skin conditions, and are better qualified than many dermatologists to determine what will treat and heal a non-medical skin condition. A dermatologist will always recommend an over-the-counter generic product for its accessibility and affordability, but not necessarily targeted to treat specific skin conditions. Many of these products are pore-clogging, and cause more problems than the original concern. Beware of these brands.

I have partnered with Roccoco Botanicals of Australia to provide optimal results for my clients. It is also the brand I prefer for my own skincare. Science-based and formulated by an award-winning cosmetic chemist, it gets results others don't. Skin health is about results, and using well-formulated products to get it!